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Everyday Eritrea: Resilience in the face of repression

From macchiato in Asmara to Ottoman ruins in Massawa, a glimpse into the essence of Eritrea.

Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
A young boy works at an outdoor welding factory and metal market called Medeber, in Asmara. Every available item is used and recycled with bits of old machinery being hammered, cut, welded, formed and turned into something of use. Eritreans pride themselves on their self-reliance. March 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]

By Didier Bizet

Published On 21 Apr 201621 Apr 2016

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Eritrea has received much attention in the midst of the refugee crisis, with traumatised citizens undertaking dangerous journeys to escape what has been described as a torturous life at the hands of a cruel regime. Human rights organisations have documented human rights abuses, arbitrary arrests and torture, as a result of which nearly 5 percent of the population has fled and 4,000 Eritreans continue to flee their country each month.

But not everyone is willing or able to seek an alternative to their homeland, and those who remain focused on the positives.

Eritrea is a curious mix – from its capital Asmara, where the smell of real macchiato pervades Harnet Avenue, to its incredible port city of Massawa by the Red Sea, one of the oldest in Africa.

The Italian colonial influences are visible throughout Asmara, in its architecture and the local culture, with its cafeterias and pizzerias. The landscape ranges from lush, cool highlands to hot and humid lowlands along the Red Sea coast.

But, it is the Eritrean people who make a lasting impression. Despite their colonial past and the harsh political climate, Eritreans remain a most hospitable and resilient people.

After a 30-year armed struggle, Eritrea gained independence from Ethiopian rule in 1991, and in May 1993, when Eritreans overwhelmingly voted for statehood in a referendum supervised by the United Nations, that independence was recognised internationally.

Isaias Afewerki has been the country’s only president since independence. His government has postponed any future elections, indefinitely. 

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Not much information slips out of Eritrea, as the government often jails independent journalists, and expelled its last international correspondent in 2007. These images from 2013 show a rare glimpse into the everyday lives of Eritreans. 

Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
The Rashaida people originate from the Arabian peninsula and now live along the Red Sea coast. They are a Muslim community that has settled in the Danakil desert, between Massawa to Port Sudan, for 200 years. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
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Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
The Rashaida tribal chief in the Danakil desert is the head of the several families that live in this camp. According to the government, nine recognised ethnic groups inhabit Eritrea. February 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
The Italians left behind a number of Fiat 500s, which Eritreans used when learning to drive. The government modified the rules in 2013, forbidding people from using this type of car for driving lessons. Massawa 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
Afar tribeswomen sell jewellery on the beaches of Dissei island in the Red Sea's Dalhak archipelago. The Afar tribe people, also known as the Danakil and Adal, live in the Horn of Africa. They also live in the Afar Region of Ethiopia and in northern Djibouti. March 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
The Ottoman era buildings in the city of Massawa have survived wars and natural disasters through the years. The war of independence left many buildings ruined. People still live in houses damaged during the war. February 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
Ottomans built in Massawa, once one of the largest and safest ports on the east coast of Africa. It suffered terrible damage during Eritrea's war of independence. The port had previously served as the headquarters of the Ethiopian navy. March 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
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Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
Dekemhare was a favourite city among Italians who colonised the country from 1898 to 1941. It was known as little Rome. The Italians established an industrial centre and transport system in Dekemhare. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
On Harnet Avenue in the capital city of Asmara, macchiatos, Italian gelato and pizza are served in a traditional Italian way. Families stroll along Harnet Avenue on Sundays. March 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
Women working at the spice market prepare berbere, a hot red pepper, and other spicy products that entice visitors and shoppers. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
The Opera House, completed around 1920, is one of Asmara's most elegant structures. Today, the building is closed; only the Opera House Bar opens during the day. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
A giant armour graveyard dating from Eritrea's war of independence is home to tonnes of military detritus. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
This Italian espresso machine from the 1920s is in perfect working order at a bar in the central square in Keren. February 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
Keren is the second largest city in Eritrea, with a population of 120,000. The majority of the population is Muslim. The name Keren means highland. March 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]
Please Do Not Use/ Eritrea
Celebration at an Orthodox church in Asmara. Christianity - Orthodox, Roman Catholic and Lutheran - and Sunni Islam are the two major religions in Eritrea. February 2013. [Didier Bizet/Al Jazeera]

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